How to Create Your Own Traditional Chinese and Japanese Incense Recipes

Where do traditional recipes come from?

The art of incense blending in China spans millennia. Early compilations cited by later writers include texts such as He Xiang Fang (Blended Incense Recipes). Recipes and techniques evolved across dynasties and spread to Japan alongside Buddhism, where coreless stick traditions matured (kōdō).

A seminal Ming-dynasty work is Xiang Sheng《香乘》, a comprehensive record of ingredients, uses, and blends. It was later included in the imperial encyclopedia Siku Quanshu (overview) and survives in several editions, including a copy preserved at Waseda University Library in Japan.

Further reading: The Met: Incense in the Ancient World

What goes into traditional Chinese & Japanese blends?

Classically, dry natural materials fall into four groups:

• Woods — e.g., sandalwood, Chinese cedar; agarwood/aloeswood has unique behavior (see below).
• Flowers — e.g., rose, osmanthus.
• Herbs — e.g., rhubarb, mint, lavender, citronella.
• Resins — e.g., frankincense, benzoin (sambrani).

Other materials (e.g., citrus peel; historical animal-derived aromatics) appear in some formulas but are less common today.

Which powders burn best for sticks and cones?

Because sticks and cones must smolder, they work best when wood-based powders make up the majority—balancing oil content (scent) with flammability. Charcoal is not part of these traditional powder recipes.

Aloeswood note: high-grade agarwood contains rich oils/resins. It smells exquisite but can behave like a resin and become harder to keep lit. Start with modest amounts and adjust after test burns.

How fine should the powders be?

Sieve to at least 80 mesh (0.18 mm / 0.007″); ideally 100 mesh (0.15 mm / 0.0049″). Coarser particles can cause brittle sticks and uneven, self-extinguishing burns.

What is the right binder? (Makko vs. others)

Sticks/cones need a binder to hold shape and smolder evenly.

• Makko (tabu-no-ki) — the classic wood-derived binder from Machilus thunbergii; helps ignition and steady smolder (background).
• Elm bark powders — appear in older recipes; quality today can vary.
• Other plant gums (e.g., gum arabic/xanthan) — bind well but can hinder burning at higher ratios; use sparingly in stick/cone formulas.
• Nanmu (Phoebe spp.) — an aromatic wood powder sometimes added for character; it is not a one-to-one replacement for makko as a primary binder.

Typical binder range: 20–35% makko works well for most stick recipes; adjust based on resins/oils and your test burns.

What’s a reliable starter formula?

Use this as a baseline and tweak from there:

60–70% base + secondary aromatics (mostly woods; keep resins ≤10–15% of the dry mix)

30–40% makko (tabu-no-ki) binder

Water: add gradually until the dough holds together without sticking.

Optional essential oils: ≤1–2% total; pre-blend with a portion of powder and re-test for soot.

Tips & tricks for better blends

• Start simple: one wood + one herb/flower + small enhancer.
• Australian sandalwood is a friendly starting base.
• Kitchen herbs (rosemary, mint) or lavender can be your secondary note.
• Use affordable agarwood as an enhancer; increase slowly.
• Resins smell great but reduce flammability—keep totals low.
• Replacing secondary powders with essential oils? Increase base wood to keep ratios balanced.
• Let sticks mature; aroma evolves over weeks like tea or wine.

The same principles apply to standard cones and backflow cones; just adjust moisture and drying.

Troubleshooting (quick fixes)

• Won’t stay lit: reduce resins/oils; add ~5% more makko; sieve finer.
• Too smoky/sooty: cut heavy oils; refine mesh; ensure gentle ventilation (see EPA indoor air).
• Cracking while drying: dough too dry—add a splash of water; knead longer.
• Warping: dough too wet or airflow uneven—let dough rest; space/rotate drying screens.

Quick Reference (save this)

• Mesh: ≥80 mesh (ideally 100) for cleaner smolder.
• Binder: makko 30–40% for sticks; adjust to formula.
• Resins: keep ≤10–15% of dry mix.
• Test burn: adjust binder up for relight issues; reduce oils for soot.
• Safety: ventilate gently; keep away from flammables; never leave unattended.